Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Fort Cochi





After 4 delightful days in Georgetown, Penang, Air Asia called and they answerd the call.  On Saturday the 11th D and G headed off to Fort Cochi in Kerala, India.  It was a real surprise when they walked out of the Cochin airport and D got her first sight of men walking around, standing, chatting etc AND THEY WERE WEARING NAPPIES!!!!  G had to tell her to stop sniggering and even staring.  Mind you Indians don't mind having a good old stare and even a comment.
A fellow passenger on the flight mentioned that in Kerala there are no Indians – only chiefs! The flight was late leeaving by one hour, but the plane wasn't full and was almost new, lovely leather seats and very comfy. 2.5 hours time difference from KL and 4 hours flying time.  The airport is 35km from town so a taxi was taken over the most chaotic roads, travelling no faster than 50 – 60 km per hour.  Crazy stuff.  the homestay is charming and clean and great value for $30 per night, large roomy and a nice big bathroom.  Situated in a lovely quiet leafy road, on the northern side of the town and opposite the Naval museum  The house is overhung by enormous rain trees with huge branches supporting coloniess of orchids, ferns and mosses.  Cheeky little squirrels bounding around in the branches (perhaps introduced english squirrels), grey headed ravens, presently nest building. Soaring on the updrafts above all this are regularly seen two species of raptor.  One is the white headed sea eagle which has passed by on a couple of occasions with an eel dangling from its beak. Also a black kite like raptor.
The food here is many and varied with great flavours.  Kerala red rice is a fat white creamy grain with a red stripe through it. Also seen is a long grain white which is much longer than anything in Oz about 15mm G asserts.  Haven't had any tum problems so far.  The weather is hot and steamy and rains heaps – BUT it is green and lush.  Heaps of waterways, all very polluted unfortunately, also lots of water hyacinth drifting out to sea. The mighty plastic bag is everywhere, sadly, and the locals don't mind dumping their rubbish wherever they feel like.
This last few days has been one of exploration, catching ferries across to the citty 2 rupees for a 20 min trip.  40 rupes to the $$.  Visits to Mattancherry (old Jew Town), peering in at the very old Dutch cemetery, Mattancherry Palace museum and portraits of the old Indian royals.  D discovered that on the day she was born the Indian parliament passed legislation named Quit India to go for removal of the british and other foreign powers and go for independence. Quite an auspicious day all round!!
The Keralans are sure overdone with religion.  Mainly RC with many churches, basillica, etc, to say nothing of mosques, temples, religious schools and mother theresa statues encased in glass with the woman herself in full cement drag and looking pinker and plumper than she ever did in real life.
We the Joeys hear that the days in Fort Cochi are coming to an end and d and G are heading off with a woman vet from Portugal named Joana, to the old british hill station town of Munnar about 60 kms and 5 hours away.  The weather is cool and clear there and the area is famous for its tea plantations.  Great photography area.

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